VOGUE ITALIA gives us 5 Reasons to Know AFTER MARCH

by Alessandra Signorelli (link to the Italian original here)

SUSTAINABILITY

photo: Dominik von Schulthess

photo: Dominik von Schulthess


May 14, 2019

The Berlin brand AFTER MARCH, created by the curator and journalist April von Stauffenberg, supports a more sustainable fashion, one shirt at a time




Some fabrics, such as lycra and nylon, take hundreds of years to dissolve in the environment. The fashion industry, according to a recent United Nations report, is among the most polluting on the planet: only 1% of the clothing produced is recycled. In Berlin, however, a young new brand is fighting against this phenomenon one shirt at a time. It's called After March.

the masterpiece (with James Bond girl detail) link to shop    here

the masterpiece (with James Bond girl detail) link to shop here

Five reasons to find out more:

– Made by the art curator and journalist April von Stauffenberg, a native of North Carolina, this original brand takes men's shirts – in 100% cotton and made in Europe – from vintage shops, and gives them a new identity, a second life so to speak, with cuts, inserts, knots, and hand-drawn embellishments that make them unique and extremely feminine. The result is a sort of boyfriend shirt deconstructed in a creative and modern way, to be worn with personality, verve, and a sense of humor.


I LOVE DICK (Thank you Chris Kraus for this title). Shop the shirt    here

I LOVE DICK (Thank you Chris Kraus for this title). Shop the shirt here

– The brand was founded as an antithesis to fast fashion. An avid consumer of Zara and H&M, April began to convert to slow fashion – and decided to take action – after seeing a film about the impact of the fashion industry called "The True Cost". April's mission? Making the vintage "stylish and cool" through what she calls "boosted" or “special effects” vintage. With the hope that "instead of being the second cause of pollution in the world, fashion will become a pioneer of practices that change the world."

Early Morning Mini-Vacation. Shop the shirt    here

Early Morning Mini-Vacation. Shop the shirt here

– Sustainability is naturally a strong point: all the alternations made by AFTER MARCH are done either by hand, by the designer herself, or by small local tailors in Berlin. Furthermore, all of the transportation, from one end of the city to the other, is by bicycle.

Dr Spock. Shop the shirt  here

Dr Spock. Shop the shirt here

– Recently the line has been extended to include, blazers, modified and embellished – with vintage knitted sleeve sleeves for example – to become unique pieces. And now the skirts are peeping out too.

– After recent collaborations with the fashion designer Vladimir Karaleev, April has a few creative synergies in the pipeline with different artists (including Douglas Gordon), and with stylists from the Berlin fashion scene.

Peaches and Herbs. Shop the shirt  here

Peaches and Herbs. Shop the shirt here









All photos © Dominik Schulthess

Free Your Mind

My pants open up new vistas. I’m against penis binding. — Eldridge Cleaver

In the wake of #metoo, I imagine there a lot of you out there feeling repressed, bound, all those flirty energies caught up in a web of “Oh shit, can I really give her a compliment?” In honor of all you sensitive souls out there, the good guys, the ones who respect women as 100% equal species on the planet, I give you this:

Eldridge Cleaver put this ad in the International Herald Tribune in 1975

Eldridge Cleaver put this ad in the International Herald Tribune in 1975

 

Penis pants! 

Now how’s that for a coming out party. Feels good, right? I am a man, watch me soar! More on Cleaver and his “virility pants” anon.

Not wanting to lead my fellow women out of this game of politically correct consumption, how about this?

Vivienne Westwood's penis clutch

Vivienne Westwood's penis clutch

 

It’s made by Vivienne Westwood, and the only photos you’ll find of it online are in the hands of Rihanna, who received it from Westwood as a gift. I also found it at a French second-hand store and I won’t tell you until I overcome my inner BUY LESS energies. Vivienne would approve. See this vid and her fantastic website dedicated to climate change.

But really? A penis clutch. Correction: an erect penis clutch in iridescent faux-alligator. What more will you ever need? Every gala dress is now dressed up with a conversation piece par excellence, every trip to the grocery store a bag of laughs. When was the last time you thought of decorating yourself with penis paraphernalia? It’s not the first time for Westwood. Look at these cuff links, this bracelet.

Screen Shot 2018-05-28 at 10.28.01 AM.png
Screen Shot 2018-05-28 at 10.30.49 AM.png

 

 

Eldridge Cleaver, on the other hand, turned from left to right (and I don’t mean how he hangs). He used to be a Black Panther member, became a candidate for President in 1968, a tongue-in-cheek fashion designer, and ended up in more than dubious circles of thought. That happens quite often, this switch from radical left to radical right. On the complicated twisted turns of his life, from believing that North Korea held the answer to equality to a religious group he headed up called the Guardians of the Sperm, it just goes to show that not all leftist thinking is as open-minded as one might like to believe. 

Yesterday at the protest against the AfD gathering at Brandenburg Gate, many fellow protestors were shouting easy soundbites like “Nazis Raus!” or “Ganz Berlin hasst die AfD”: I had come to the gathering to show my stance against the AfD’s growing numbers, to be part of a number bigger than theirs. But being a part of a crowd, one feels castrated in one’s own beliefs. I didn’t want to shout anything with the word “hate” in it. That just further divides us and resolves nothing. It is a castration of thought. “We’ve been castrated in clothing,” Cleaver said in an interview in Jet magazine in 1978. Free your mind, or your bound penis, or so one thinks, and the rest will follow. Nothing could be further from the truth, of course. But for now, the idea of a penis clutch feels like a LOL statement of empowerment, a subtle weapon against narrow-minded avenues, making enemies at every turn of the road.